The complex life of one of fashion’s most iconic designers, Coco Chanel, will be captured on stage when Queensland Ballet’s extravaganza Coco Chanel: The Life of a Fashion Icon premiers in Australia.
From orphan to fashion legend, Chanel’s journey is set against the backdrop of Jazz Age Paris, in this rags-to-riches tale, choreographed by acclaimed Belgian-Columbian choreographer Annabelle Lopez Ochoa.
Ms Ochoa said it was the mystery of the woman behind the brand, and her lifelong struggle for emotional and financial independence, that drew her to the story.
“There are a lot of things we don’t know about Chanel – she was very complex. I felt that before one buys her perfume, one should know who this woman was,” Ms Ocha said.
“She’s the first businesswoman who built a fashion empire. She worked tirelessly until the age of 87. Her fashion was art, and on top of that, it helped to liberate women into more comfortable clothes.”
Chanel was heavily influenced by the Paris-based Ballet Russes (The Russian Ballet). She designed for the company and the corset-free, loosely fitting silhouettes and light diaphanous fabrics worn by the dancers became part of her signature look.
She created a global legacy through her business acumen and ability to grasp every opportunity, even when it wasn’t palatable to society.
In Chanel’s case this included a romantic affair with Nazi spy Hans Günther von Dincklage who helped her continue a lavish lifestyle during Germany’s occupation of France in the Second World War. In light of this, and the frequent brandishing of cigarettes, a habit that was in vogue at the time, the ballet is recommended for audiences aged 15+.
Ms Ochoa is well-known for producing ballets centred on strong, multifaceted women such as Frido Kahlo and Eve Perón.
She spent two years researching the French designer and worked closely with artistic collaborator Nancy Meckler to understand the humble beginnings, triumphs, moral complexities, and dark opportunism that shaped her life. She has artfully woven this into a narrative ballet full of drama and heightened beauty.
Queensland Ballet’s Acting Artistic Director Greg Horsman said Coco Chanel: the Life of a Fashion Icon was a must see for Brisbane audiences.
“I was fortunate enough to see the world premiere in Hong Kong,” Mr Horsman said.
“It’s an excellent creation, well researched, deeply expressionistic and theatrical.
“Queensland Ballet is fortunate be able to work with Annabelle Lopez Ochoa, who is a prolific and award-winning choreographer in demand and creating works around the world.”
The elegant costumes and minimalist sets were designed by Paris-based Jérôme Kaplan.
“There are so many things to say about Chanel’s life – her work, her fashion, her love affairs – that I felt it better to keep the set simple – just like her style: simple, elegant, and minimalist,” Mr Kaplan said.
Queensland Ballet’s Head of Costume, Lauryn Jackson, said the costumes did a wonderful job of bringing the world of haute couture to life while expressing the atmosphere and period of the narrative.
“Importantly for our dancers, Jerome’s designs cleverly combine the unique challenge of complementing the physicality of the dancers while enhancing the grace and beauty of their movements,” Ms Jackson said.
Queensland Ballet has provided staff, dancers, and audience members with a range of educational resources about the Holocaust and the devastating impacts of antisemitism from the Queensland Holocaust Museum.
Ms Lopez Ochoa does not put Chanel on a pedestal, rather she explores the designer’s flawed, opportunistic, and determined character, her struggle to find emotional and financial independence, and her ultimate triumph.
“I find it gratifying to present a ballet with a theme that enlightens us about the evolution of the position of women in society.”
Coco Chanel: the Life of a Fashion Icon is at the Playhouse Theatre, QPAC, from 4 – 19 October 2024. For tickets, visit https://www.queenslandballet.com.au/performances/2024/coco-chanel
