One of the world’s most significant and valuable fashion collections has found a new home at the National Museum in Canberra.
Drawn from what has been described as one of the top 10 collections in the world, worth tens of millions of dollars, the 1000 significant items chart the colourful history of Australian and international fashion design over 150 years.
The items date from the 1850s to the 2000s and were collected by leading Australian-American fashion afficionado Charlotte Smith.
Ms Smith began collecting when her American godmother Doris Darnell bequeathed her 3500 pieces in 2004. Ms Darnell was a Quaker from Pennsylvania and a librarian who meticulously catalogued all of the items which were given to her as gifts.
“My godmother Doris Darnell always dreamed of her collection becoming part of a museum, where it would be recognised not just for its fashion, but for its incredible story of women’s history,” Ms Smith said.
“What started as a humble collection has now found a place in our national institution – it’s truly beyond what I ever imagined.
“This unrivalled collection isn’t just rows of designer pieces; it is a dynamic and diverse piece of living history that brings the past to life through the women who wore these garments.”
At it’s peak, Smith’s archive numbered more than 10,000 pieces, gathered for 70 years, and represented history from the past 250 years.
Smith whittled down her collection to just over 5000 garments just before COVID-19. One thousand will be given to the National Museum of Australia (part donated, and part acquired) and the rest is being sold.
The Museum’s Charlotte Smith collection was hand-picked to include recognised 20th century designers such as Dior, Chanel, Balenciaga, Pucci, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Oscar de la Renta, Zandra Rhodes, Alexander McQueen, Mary Katrantzou and Vivien Westwood. The collection also includes designers from China and Hong Kong, Vietnam, Japan, New Zealand, Israel and Switzerland.
Wedding and evening dresses, shoes, gloves, underwear, nightwear, blouses, hats and handbags feature in the archive.
National Museum Director Katherine McMahon said the collection provided an intriguing window into how Australian fashion and design has been shaped by global trends and forces.
“We are absolutely thrilled to offer a home to more than 1000 items which so powerfully illustrate Australian and international fashion and design history.”
National Museum Senior Curator Cheryl Crilly said the collection also boasted an “incredibly compelling and special” Australian flavour.
“Trailblazers of Australian fashion and design are a cornerstone of this remarkable collection, with garments and accessories from over 30 significant designers including Vivian Chan Shaw, Lucy Secor, Beril Jents, Evie Hill, Mona Crawford, Ninette of Melbourne, Danica of Double Bay, Jenny Key, Linda Jackson, George Gross, Christopher Essex, House of Merivale, Katie Pye, and Akira Isogawa.
“The Museum’s collection explores the influence of international fashion and design on Australian fashion, and its impact on the wardrobes of Australians – whether it be through high-end couture, designer labels, high street fashion, or home-sewn outfits and accessories.
“This significant acquisition has enhanced the National Museum’s collection, and demonstrates the power of fashion to shape design, manufacturing industries, consumerism, and social and cultural change.
“The collection traverses all these important themes, interweaving them with the personal stories of women throughout the world, and will continue to educate, captivate and inspire people for decades to come.”
